Just a little game inspired by @comp56. It's a bit different from his original design. Modified to have a custom points race appearance, a double skunk, includes basic instructions to be engraved on the bottom of the lid, is made from complete pieces in the core as opposed to hollow (just a design choice), and I use square vertical dowels to assist in alignment and structure. I have provided alternative 3rd level plates, depending on what cribbage pins you plan to use (if you have narrow, deep pins, there is a third level that will allow full depth).
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Step 1: Run Top Layer
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If you wish to customize the lid, do so now.
Run the top layer. While the piece is still in the machine, take a ruler and line it up on the two scored marks above and blow the piece. Mark the points race top and bottom edges on both top and bottom of the race, then the top of the points race ring. Then, leaving the stock still pinned in the machine, lift both pieces out and carefully transfer the the pencil lines to the other side of both pieces. Lining them up while placing them back into the stock in the machine, flip the lid and run the instructions (lid layer).
Once you have run the top layer and lid, run the second and third layer.
If your cribbage pins:
Pass through the first but not through the second layer, you can run:
When assembling the pieces, you'll start with layer 2 (setting the points race aside, this will be the last piece you apply). You will utilize a flat surface such as a table, and I found that a silicone mat made a great surface to set on the table. I set the second layer face down, applied my water based contact cement (you can use wood glue) onto the surface in a thin layer. It is important to apply the glue in a thin layer. This helps prevent cracking and warping as well as too much squeeze out of the glue that has to be cleaned up later on.
When the glue was laid down on the surface, I sprinkled a little salt onto the surface. This helps the surfaces bite into each other. If you're using cheap wood, you can use sand as an alternative, though salt will dissolve over time. Place the rectangular dowels into the holes, then place the next layer in place. Always make sure that you are placing layers with the points (ring) holes first, before you are placing the layer(s) with no points holes.
I have moved the dowel holes behind the points race to hide them for more aesthetics.
Once you slide the second piece down, you can use the dowels to line them up as well as the center holes.
Once you level out the layer, you'll press a weight on it or clamp it in place. Let the first two layers completely set before applying the next.
After you have applied the bottom layer, you'll turn the board over and apply the points race. To apply the points race, add glue to the glue/adhesive to the edges, making sure to apply some to the larger dividers of the holes, but do not go past the second row of holes. Be sure to get some glue onto the tops of the square dowels.
If you wish to customize the lid, do so now.
Run the top layer. While the piece is still in the machine, take a ruler and line it up on the two scored marks above and blow the piece. Mark the points race top and bottom edges on both top and bottom of the race, then the top of the points race ring. Then, leaving the stock still pinned in the machine, lift both pieces out and carefully transfer the the pencil lines to the other side of both pieces. Lining them up while placing them back into the stock in the machine, flip the lid and run the instructions (lid layer).
Once you have run the top layer and lid, run the second and third layer.
If your cribbage pins:
Pass through the first but not through the second layer, you can run:
1 Layer 1 (Point Race)
0 Layer 2/3
3 Layer 4
1 Bottom
Pass through the first and second layer, but not a third layer, you can run:
1 Layer 1 (Point Race)
1 Layer 2/3
2 Layer 4
1 Bottom
Pass through the first, second, and third layer, you can run three
1 Layer 1 (Point Race)
3 Layer 2/3
0 Layer 4
1 Bottom
When assembling the pieces, you'll start with layer 2 (setting the points race aside, this will be the last piece you apply). You will utilize a flat surface such as a table, and I found that a silicone mat made a great surface to set on the table. I set the second layer face down, applied my water based contact cement (you can use wood glue) onto the surface in a thin layer. It is important to apply the glue in a thin layer. This helps prevent cracking and warping as well as too much squeeze out of the glue that has to be cleaned up later on.
When the glue was laid down on the surface, I sprinkled a little salt onto the surface. This helps the surfaces bite into each other. If you're using cheap wood, you can use sand as an alternative, though salt will dissolve over time. Place the rectangular dowels into the holes, then place the next layer in place. Always make sure that you are placing layers with the points (ring) holes first, before you are placing the layer(s) with no points holes.
I have moved the dowel holes behind the points race to hide them for more aesthetics.
Once you slide the second piece down, you can use the dowels to line them up as well as the center holes.
Once you level out the layer, you'll press a weight on it or clamp it in place. Let the first two layers completely set before applying the next.
After you have applied the bottom layer, you'll turn the board over and apply the points race. To apply the points race, add glue to the glue/adhesive to the edges, making sure to apply some to the larger dividers of the holes, but do not go past the second row of holes. Be sure to get some glue onto the tops of the square dowels.