This is a scale model of the Rocna, one of the very best of the modern anchors for small boats. I use one of these as my primary anchor now, and have been delighted with its performance and reliability of setting in all sorts of conditions up and down much of the west coast of Canada and the Salish Sea. It is a very particular and highly evolved shape, which makes it an enjoyable challenge to model. It's almost as much of a challenge to stow on really small boats, so I had to make a custom chain locker set into the floorboards on my sail & oar boat. I added a couple of pics of my favorite boat and anchor as a bonus. This model is designed for use with 1/16 basswood, or some other wood which will carve and take detail well. It is a more advanced project which requires some additional carving or filing of the assembled parts to get the best effects. I recommend a gap-filling thick CA (cyanoacrylate) glue for some of the assembly, as well as a basic white glue for laminating parts where you want a bit of wiggle room to get everything lined up properly. You will also want some paper masking tape to temporarily hold small parts in alignment.
Cut the parts from 1/16 basswood sheet. Poplar or limewood are also good possibilities, but balsa is likely too soft unless you get a very dense hard balsa.
Check the “Tab generation” slider to keep the small parts safely attached to the sheet until you are ready for assembly.
The alignment jig can be cut from a scrap of anything handy if you want to save your premium basswood.
Use a bit of masking tape to hold the halves together, and press it against the jig to set the correct angle. Use gap filling CA glue in the crack to bond them together. After the glue has cured, use a knife to carve flush the little bits of the locating tabs which protrude.
Bevel the top edge of the alignment tabs so that you can snug things up tighter. Tape the two halves of the flange together with a little cut strip of masking tape to hold them together. Additional pads of tape can help hold everything just so until you can drip a bit of CA glue in the crack to tack them together. After the tack welds are hard, remove the tape and fill the joints with your gap-filling thick CA. Finally, use your knife or a bit of sandpaper to knock any protruding edges down to flush.
Glue up the shank and the roll-bar halves and set aside to dry. Note that the roll-bar halves in particular are angled on the sheet so that you can laminate them together with crossing grain directions to make them stronger.
Trim the mating halves of the tip ballast at a slight angle so that the halves will come together to a nice joint. Glue them to the underside of the fluke.
Use the jig again to make sure that the shank is bisecting the angle of the fluke properly. On the full size anchor there is a generous welding bead fillet here, which you can simulate with a fillet made of thick glue. The bottom part of the shank can now be filed to match the slight angle of the bottom.
Carve or file the edges of the ballast and fluke back at the tip to a sharpened point. Note: this bevel is only at the front part of the fluke, easing back to a square section aft. Look at the picture for guidance.
The mating edges of the roll-bar need to be trimmed at an angle to form the compound angle where it meets the fluke. Do this part while the edges are all still square, and check for fit before proceeding. Look at the pictures to find the appropriate angle.
The roll-bar which makes sure the anchor is not stable upside down is made from round stock on the full size anchor. Use sandpaper to aggressively round off the corners to make this part look round enough at this small scale.
This last step is perhaps optional detailing at such a small scale, but for us completeists out there, here's how to add the little flanges which encourage the point to start to dig in:
Using your scrap, cut a couple of tiny little wedges, glued outboard under where the roll-bar meets the flange. A tiny detail, to be sure.